🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.